Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s aim with Omnia is to build complexity from the diversity of their nine parcels spread out over all five of Châteauneuf’s villages. The diversity continues in the cellar, where Mounir puts the juice into an assortment of containers, from large foudres to small concrete eggs. Then he leaves the wines to do their own thing for 18 months, without interference. The result is exceptional in how it combines clarity, finesse and grace with structure and complexity. You might even mistake it for a Burgundy, given its garnet hue and the flinty reduction at first pass. But then, with air, the meatiness of the grenache emerges, rose-scented and raspberry-bright. The longer it’s opened, the brighter and more complex it gets, channeling berry patches and rose gardens, herbs and stones, a constant stream of impressions passing like a high-speed slideshow of Châteauneuf.

A dreamy wine, with a plume of incense, mulled raspberry and red tea aromas curling up from the glass, followed by a very silky and refined feel to the mix of gently mulled red fruit, singed wood spice and floral notes. The perfume carries through the finish authoritatively, leaving fresh and dried fruit, sous-bois and mineral notes in its wake. A beautiful and distinctive wine. Best from 2023 through 2040. 300 cases imported. — JM

Opaque ruby. An array of ripe red and blue fruit and floral scents are joined by suggestions of dark chocolate, lavender and baking spices. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering deep-pitched bitter cherry, black raspberry and cola flavors and a hint of dark chocolate. Aeration brings energy and a sweeter cast to the wine. Closes very long and taut, with resonating spiciness and steadily building tannins. -- Josh Raynolds