Powerful and firmly structured, this imposing dry riesling is still very closed, showing just hints of ripe orange, kafir lime and lemon balm. Incredibly focused on the concentrated palate with a very long finish that’s cool, dark and mysterious. From biodynamically grown grapes. Better after 2021.

The nose on this wine offers glimpses of both dried and fresh lemon peel, smoky reduction and wet chalk. The palate comes in with cool concentration focused on a ripe but tingling notion of lemon zest. Earthiness anchors this all, with lemon notes that convey cool, vivid freshness. Stony, chalky lemony purity seems to radiate and real drive seems to propel the wine forward. The finish is bone dry and long. Drink 2025–2050. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

The pale lime-yellow 2018 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl opens with an intense and complex, yeasty, flinty and saline bouquet of perfectly ripe, super ripe and even stewed but healthy fruit aromas. From vines averaging 44 years of age on calcareous Muschelkalk soils in a south, southeast-facing cru in Hunawihr, this is a dense, very complex and sustainable dry Riesling that starts very fine and elegant on the palate and is concentrated and intense, with fine, saline acidity, and it develops a deep, pure yet still challenging, vigorous finish due to its youth and structure. The aftertaste is enormously long and salivating. Very promising, Bottled in January 2020 with 12.5% alcohol and a natural cork. Tasted in January 2023. - Stephan Reinhardt

There's a a streak of tangy salinity to the steeped apricot and raspberry fruit flavors in this linear white, layered with rapierlike acidity. This crackles across the palate, offering accents of kumquat, pickled ginger, pine, graphite and ground cardamom spice alongside the juicy fruit. Best from 2023 through 2030. — A.N.