The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus, which derives from two east-facing plots within the same lieu-dit in Les Barillers, located mid-slope, imparts a very mineral, almost crystalline character. A vineyard that rarely produces powerful wines, even in the context of 2017, it has retained its personality, though it’s a little more generous and slightly less focused than the 2016 rendition. Unfurling from the glass with aromas of lemon peel, honeysuckle and oyster shell, it is medium-bodied, racy and saline-tinged and can be approached before the last year’s release. It was disgorged in May 2023. - Kristaps Karklins