Penfolds nailed the great vintage, making a wine that is perfect in every way. The blend of 97% shiraz and 3% cabernet sauvignon comes from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Magill Estate in Adelaide, in that order, and as usual spent 18 months in new American hogsheads. Its detail is superb, with light and shade allowing blackberry and plum fruit pride of place, but there's also flashes of spice and licorice. It's as mouthwatering with the last taste as the first, and 7.3g/l of acidity leaves the mouth fresh.

The 2016 Grange includes 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and was sourced from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley, with a little bit from Magill Estate, in the suburbs of Adelaide. Aged in 100% new American oak (as always), it offers up trademark lifted aromas plus scents of vanilla, toasted coconut, cedar, raspberries and blackberries. Impressively concentrated and full-bodied, with an extraordinarily long, velvety finish, it's nevertheless reasonably fresh and tight, with decades of cellaring potential if properly stored. Certainly at least on a par with such vintages as 2010 and 2012, the big question is whether it will ultimately reach triple digits. - JC

So much going on in the glass; it’s a tempestuous opera with a big cast. On the nose, there’s high lift from a big, generous swirl of fruity aromas that carry a hint of fermented fig among the blackberry, dark plum and aniseed. Investigate further on the palate and there’s a lot going on within its dense hedge of dark berries and secondary flavours of mocha and liquorice. Ultimately, it’s the heavy black notes that win out and persist, but there is so much to ponder, even after the event has concluded. A Grange worth mulling over. RRP £589 Drinking Window 2022 - 2065

A blend of 97% shiraz and 3% cabernet sauvignon from Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Magill Estate. This is a very intense Grange with such rich black-fruit, tar and coal-smoke aromas together with iodine and black-olive notes and an array of wild dark herbs. Almost impenetrable dark plums and licorice, as well as bacon fat. The palate has such seamless delivery of intense blackberry and plum flavors with some redder tones emerging, too. The power here is countered by such freshness and an almost elegant feel. This has such impressive, vibrant, long and seamless fruit power. Really is exceptionally complete, but tight, needs time to open. Very enjoyable now, but better after 2023.

Deep, shimmering violet. Expansive, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of cherry liqueur, cassis, coconut and pungent flowers show excellent clarity. Stains the palate with concentrated dark fruit and violet pastille flavors that are complemented by suggestions of mocha, smoked meat and exotic spices. Distinctly generous in character, but there's also superb energy thanks to a core of juicy acidity. Sweet dark fruit and candied violet notes drive the finish, which features steadily building tannins and shows remarkable tenacity. -- Josh Raynolds

From a solid vintage in South Australia, this wine seamlessly weaves together notes of Italian plum, black cherry, mocha, cigar box and a plethora of herbs and spices. The palate is chiseled, all rippling, glistening muscles, but without the top heaviness. Ultrafine tannins cinch vibrant fruit while that cigar box element lingers on the lengthy finish. CHRISTINA PICKARD

A dynamic and distinctive red, balancing dark bass notes and fresh fruit. Dark chocolate–covered maraschino cherry and chai tea flavors form the core, but waves of white truffle, spicy cigar, gunpowder, white pepper, dried lavender, salted caramel, framboise and roasted almond are right behind. Dense, velvety tannins firm up on the finish, but the flavors are seamless and harmonious. Drink now through 2045. — M.W.

Under Peter Gago’s direction, Grange has become a thoroughly contemporary wine, building on more than 60 years of history, standing apart from the wars over the soul of shiraz while playing a leadership role in negotiations for a truce. This 2016 presents all of shiraz’s power and energy as textural bliss, bypassing simple fruit, high alcohol or tannic interruptions. The damson plum, huckleberry and dark currant flavors are layered into the wine’s complexity, but the impression isn’t about fruit. The sweet oak spice, the savory chocolate ganache and the meaty, musky scents in the tannins show no heat of the alcohol that extracted them. If you do perceive the alcohol, it reads as the varied wavelengths of light from distant planets, a cool energy that drives the wine and will sustain it, like other great vintages of Grange, for fifty years or more.