This is super silky and elegant aglianico with a deep and dense core of ripe red and black fruit. Full-bodied with beautifully embedded, fine-grained tannins and a long, controlled finish. Just a little pull on the mouth right at the end, so probably best to give it another year or two, if you can resist. Best from 2024.

A rich and darkly inviting blend of plum sauce, clove, cocoa and camphor makes the 2016 Taurasi Riserva Radici impossible to ignore. This is pure class, pliant and enveloping on the palate, with silken waves of ripe red and black fruit guided by brisk acidity. Citrus and inner herbal tones add tremendous depth. The 2016’s regal tannins come forward through the close, framing the experience with youthful poise without slowing its momentum, leaving chalky mineral tones and nuances of nectarine to linger. The balance here is something to behold. Bury this beauty deep in the cellar. -- Eric Guido

A focused and fragrant red, leading with hints of pencil shavings, violet, tobacco and citrus that accent flavors of blackberry and black cherry fruit. This is refined and supple, fresh with lively acidity, but also shows weight and concentration, with sculpted tannins emerging on the mineral- and spice-laced finish. Drink now through 2036. - AN

This pure Aglianico from the highest part of the Montemarano estate at 550m aged 60 months in cask and bottle. The evolution is evident first in subtle aromas that combine dark red fruit with spice, smoke and chocolate. As evolved as the dark cherry fruit is, it remains vividly full-flavoured thanks to a quiet intensity derived from both a sinewy, fine texture and an underpinning of savoury, mouthwatering acidity, elevating this seamless beauty into something truly special.

Showing its distinctive white label, the Mastroberardino 2016 Taurasi Riserva Radici is a full-bodied expression from a classic vintage. The wine carries its fruit weight with grace and offers plenty of lingering black fruit, dried plum, cinnamon spice and toasted coconut. Detractors might fault the ample oak spice here, but the wine hits a delicate point of balance thanks to the extreme fruit quality at hand. - Monica Larner