Reminding me of a fresher version of the 2003, the 2016 Chateauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Reservée is another magical wine from Laurence Feraud that could come from nowhere else. I still remember tasting (and loving) this beauty from barrel. It doesn’t quite have the sheer over-the-top decadence of the 2003, but it does have more elegance, while not giving up an inch with regard to texture and opulence. Dark ruby/plum-hued with a monster display of Provençal goodness in its garrigue, lavender, violets, kirsch, plums, and Asian spices, this full-throttle, ripe, sexy Châteauneuf du Pape has silky tannins, flawless balance, and a heavenly texture. It’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and drink well for at least 20-25 years.

Inflections of violet and rose petal mingle into crushed earth and dried mushroom in this deeply complex red. Black cherry and black-currant flavors are profoundly ripe but muted by shades of leather, fur and garrigue. A nuanced, deeply satisfying wine, it offers both concentrated ripeness and old-world restraint. - ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA

A singed chestnut accent leads off here, followed by a sappy core of steeped cherry, raspberry and plum fruit, infused liberally with tobacco, brick dust and garrigue notes. Reveals a brawny edge, but there’s ample fruit in the end. A rock-solid old-school style that should cruise in the cellar. Best from 2021 through 2040.—J.M.

A bit tight, and not quite as expressive as it was a few years ago, with coaxing, you find dried flowers, peppery red plums, black raspberries, and an array of spices, with a touch of smoke in the background. Full-bodied, meaty and intense, the finish displays ripe, dark kirsch with a peppery edge. Drink from 2024-2037.

95+ Every year that I've tried the 2016 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, I've liked it better than the year before, so I've gone ahead and peremptorily added the + sign to this year's rating. Black cherries and licorice pick up a hint of chocolate in this full-bodied, rich, velvety wine that should evolve nicely for at least 12-15 years. - Joe Czerwinski