I like the intensity to this, with dark tar and smoky notes followed by graphite, tobacco, bitter cacao and dark fruit. Powerful yet tight and compact, with firm and polished tannins. Structured and so long. Tasted from magnum. Try after 2023.

Milk chocolate, butterscotch and black cherry dominate the nose on this deep-violet-colored wine. Rich flavors of black plum, black cherry, chocolate-covered espresso bean and lavender are nestled into a framework of deep-set tannins that drop off into a spice-filled finish. Drink now through 2052 Mike DeSimone

A dry year in Ribera del Duero did not diminish the epic nature of Unico. There’s a delicate side to this vintage, with floral notes of violets and honey, touches of capsicum spice in the tannins and plenty of bold, luscious fruit to draw your attention. The tannins keep the wine tightly focused without any aggression, even as they may completely dry all the juiciness out of your mouth. It leaves a lasting impression of the textural grace of spicy old-vine tempranillo—a fascinating sensation of refined power, rooted in earthy depths that will reward long aging.

This is at once fresh and elegant on first impression, with lovely hints of fragrant Turkish bazaar spices, game and dried mint lacing the crème de cassis, violet, and black and red licorice notes. But gliding across the palate, buoyed by fresh acidity and sculpted tannins, this expands to show deep notes of tarry smoke, fig cake, espresso and iron alongside the appealing fruit and spice. Long and creamy, offering both power and grace. Tinto Fino and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2037. — A.N.

Bright red cherry aromatics combine with delicate sensations of oak. In the mouth, the keynote red fruits remain, while the palate is tighter and the tannins are firm and bold. A wine that needs time to integrate and soften the grip. Rainy spring, dry and warm summer, September rains. 24.5-25.9 hl/ha. Spent one year in new oak barrels, one year in used barrels and three years in large-format tanks. Bottled June 2018. 88,188 bottles, 3,537 magnums, 328 double magnums, 55 Imperials and five Salmanazars. Tasted from magnum.

The 2012 Único from magnum showed less ripe tannins in the context of other vintages like 2014 or 2004, as the year was very warm and dry and the plants got blocked and the tannins didn't ripen perfectly. There is a little more alcohol, and it's powerful but will always have a bit of rusticity. 3,537 magnums were filled in June 2018. - Luis Gutiérrez