Some lovely welcoming fruits and gently exotic spices on the nose lead to a palate with oak in evidence, but well balanced by raspberry and black cherry notes. There's not huge concentration but it's well judged, with an appetisingly juicy finish. Siran shows well in both vintages here, opening in the glass, unfurling and continuing the conversation. 35% new oak.

Tasted at the vertical held at the property, the 2012 Château Siran, a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, has a very composed and delineated bouquet with scents of red plum, raspberry, mineral, cedar and a touch of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, gently grippy tannin, and graphite-tinged black fruit that turns spicier towards the finish, which displays commendable substance and persistence - a 2012 Margaux with ambitions. This is a very fine Siran, much better than many of the wines produced in the 1990s and it comes recommended. Tasted February 2016. -Neal Martin