Still austere at this point, it is certainly serious for a 2012. It's extremely young, silky and polished, opening beautifully in the glass to reveal rich chocolate, gourmet damson and cocoa-dusted edges. An impressive wine that needs time. 60% new oak. 53% of production. (Drink between 2021-2038)

The 2012 Cantenac Brown is a vintage that, oddly, I have never tasted in bottle, only in barrel. It is open-knit on the nose with blackberry, wild hedgerow, loam and light minty aromas, although it does not possess the complexity of say the 2014 or 2017. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, fine depth and balance, marine-infused black fruit mixed with a well-structured, almost Saint-Julien inspired finish. This is a very commendable, classically-styled Margaux that should drink well over the next 15 years. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château. -- Neal Martin