Almost plush in texture, showing an overall sense of finesse, with mouthwatering acidity brightening the finely meshed layers of poached pear, baked plum, mandarin orange peel and pickled ginger, accented by rich hints of toasted walnut and spun honey. A lovely 2010, with a fresh and focused finish. Disgorged July 2014. Drink now through 2030. 120 cases imported. –AN

The 2010 version of Vilmart Cie’s “Grand Cellier d’Or” is comprised of a blend of eighty percent chardonnay and twenty percent pinot noir (from a single plot of forty-five year-old vines in the village of Rilly la Montagne). As I mentioned previously, the vins clairs for this bottling do not go through malolactic and are aged for ten months in oak casks (a mix of older and new barrels) prior assemblage. The 2010 Grand Cellier d’Or spent three years on the lees prior to disgorgement and offers up a fine, gently new oaky nose of apple, pear, acacia blossom, chalky minerality, brioche and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with a lovely core, excellent mineral drive, very refined mousse and lovely cut on the long and zesty finish. This is still a young wine and really could use a few years in the cellar to better absorb its touch of new wood, but it is a delicious glass already and will only be better with further bottle age.