They didn’t bottle Dalmau in 2008, so they are already releasing the 2009 Dalmau Reserva now, which shows a more modern profile than the Reserva or the Castillo de Ygay. It’s a blend of 74% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Graciano from a single vineyard called Canaja, planted in 1950, which yields one kilo of grapes per plant. The different varieties are fermented separately in stainless steel and oak vats. The wine carries out its malolactic fermentation in new Allier barrels, where it matures for a further twenty months, but the varieties are kept separated for the first 13-14 months. The wine is left to settle in concrete vats for six months before being bottled. It displays a dark ruby color, a serious nose with some balsamic, minty notes, and aromas of licorice, cedar wood, smoke, cigar ash, a mixture of red and black fruit, and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon. It feels more Atlantic than Mediterranean. The palate is round and elegant, with great acidity, amulti-dimensional character, and a very long finish. 22,500 bottles were filled. Drink 2014-2028. - Luis Gutiérrez

Brilliant ruby. Explosively perfumed aromas of cherry compote, cassis, vanilla and pipe tobacco, with smoky and floral overtones. Lush and open-knit, offering deeply concentrated dark fruit and floral pastille flavors complicated by sweet vanilla and mocha nuances. Clings with superb tenacity on the gently tannic finish, leaving behind notes of dark berry liqueur and rose pastille. -- Josh Raynolds

Rich, ripe flavors of blackberry and black cherry mingle with savory notes of licorice, tobacco and clove in this plush, lively red. Features a generous texture, with enough acidity for balance and freshness. Drink now through 2022. - TM