A rather solar expression suffuses the complex nose mingling notes of prunes, spices, and forest floor. This is not the most structured wine of this tasting but it remains a textbook Pichon Baron, as it has the telltale upright style, tension, and freshness, as well as an airborne finish. Superb wine whose complexity and depth sneak up on you. (Drink between 2022-2030)

One of the rare estates where the 2006 is a step above the 2005 - one of those wines that makes doing a vertical so rewarding, as you discover the hidden successes, and this is one I highly recommend. Waves of sweet blackberry and juicy raspberry fruits, toned and muscular tannins, sinewy with bounce, extremely inviting overall. Tobacco leaf and slate, signature Pauillac pencil lead and grilled cedar all combine to give a drawn out finish. The underground cellar opened in this year, so they were able to extend the length of ageing because had more space for the barrels, and it has paid off. 80% new oak. Jean-René Matignon technical director.

There's an excellent dark color to this with blowsy rich aromas of crushed blackberry and currant. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a long finish. The center palate will fill in with time. This has lovely balance. Best after 2014. -JS

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Château Pichon Baron has more red than black fruit on the nose, quite showy with hints of crème de cassis and then later it calms down to reveal classic pencil lead aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth. This is quite assertive and grippy, although later vintages have evinced more precision and mineralité on the finish. Still, this is a fine if rather burly Pichon Baron. Tasted January 2016. - Neal Martin