The first year that Angelo made wines at Ca'Marcanda - 2000 - was a very hot vintage, yet even after 22 years this flagship bottling is remarkably fresh and focused. From the estate's white soils, rich in limestone, clay and large stones, it has a beautiful aroma of damp earth, dried cherries and tobacco. Ripe red and black fruits and a touch of meatiness lead to tell-tale limestone tightness on the mid-palate. Integrated tannins and gum-tingling acidity frame the fruit nicely, while a long, saline finish makes this very moreish. A gastronomic and long-lived wine. (Drink between 2022-2035)

Very good indeed! Big aromas of black licorice. Almost jammy, with plum and berry character, then turns to cocoa and paprika. Full-bodied, with chewy yet refined tannins and a tight finish. Very firm yet chunky, like a Pauillac from a rich year like 1989 or 1982. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Angelo Gaja's first release of this wine. Best after 2008. 665 cases made

The 2000 Camarcanda is the first vintage of the top of the line wine, darker in color, riper on the nose with a bit of the plum and raisin character of the very hot 2000 vintage, alcoholic but not to excess, spicy, chocolatey, and warm in flavor, firm and fresh on the finish. 2001 is likely to be better, but this is a flying start. - DT