Wow. So much pretty toffee, salted caramel and chocolate with candied-plum character. Lightly salty. It’s translucent and vivid. Full-bodied, yet tight and polished with vibrance and regal sense. Medium-sweet. Energetic. Drink now.

This takes a slightly bold approach, with a bright display of orange blossom, caramelized peach, ginger cream and date flavors, backed by caramel and orange peel notes that ripple through the finish. A beautiful combination of weight and tension. Drink now. — J.M.

Dirk always reminds us that his 20, balances out to an average of 24 years of age. Topaz in color with more of a tawny edge, the aromatics (and textural character) is the strong point of this Port. It is loaded with panoply of marzipan, candied citrus, clove, honey and torrefacted notes that create a whirlwind in the glass. Medium-weight and upon the first sip the acidity shined through, cleaving the off-dry level of sweetness, and while I thought Niepoort, I didn't say so out loud. Smooth, velvety and mouthfilling, this is a special 20 Year Old, and if one appreciates "textural pleasure" you're gonna love this bright star.

The NV 20 Year Old Tawny Port was bottled in 2016 with a long cork. On first taste, I liked this far more than the 1997 Colheita reviewed this issue (about the same age). This has a bit more weight, a bit more intensity of complex flavors, a hint of brandy and a bit more power. That said, the Colheita stands out more for its texture and freshness. I personally liked the balance a bit better on the 1997, but they are both awfully good and each will justly have their fans. Or, resolve the problem by buying some of each. There's no right answer--and no wrong one. Pricing was not available as of this writing. - Mark Squires