One of the pinnacles of the tasting with Selosse, unsurprisingly, is the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance, a wine with the most complex making, going through four stages of maturation: from barrels to the bottle. As always, it derives from a solera created in 1986. Originally, the wine was sourced from two parcels in Avize, but today the base wine (which eventually contributes only about 4.8% to the final blend in the bottle) is produced from a selection of plots in the village. Guillaume opted to include parcels that best fit the desired balance—sometimes these will be south-facing, other times east or even north-facing sites. Muscular and multidimensional, it jumps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of orange zest, spices, beeswax, toasted hazelnuts and dried fig. On the palate, it is full-bodied, vinous and textural yet searingly chalky—even more mineral than Les Chantereines. Guillaume Selosse remarks that oxidation during maturation (and through multiple transfers between different vessels) frees the wine from fruit in a classic sense, leaving mostly chalky extract and enhancing its mineral aspect. Every time I taste at this great domaine, I vacillate between Substance and the lieux-dits as to which wine best defines this benchmark producer. The latest release was disgorged in July 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage and promises a concentrated, unforgettable drinking experience. - Kristaps Karklins

The NV Champagne Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs Substance is the only wine in the range from Selosse that is produced in a true solera system, with criadera, and this release has the addition of the 2016 vintage going into the cuvée. The nose offers fantastic layered depth framed by a minty freshness lifting from the glass, along with notes of fresh apricot, marzipan, citrus oils, and wet stones. The palate is textural with a core of rich sapidity and buoyant acidity that creates a weightless and impeccably balanced feel throughout. The mousse is fine, but the wine’s savory texture takes the lead. It’s going to drink well now or over the coming 20 years. Disgorged in February 2024. - Audrey Frick

The NV (2017) Extra-Brut Substance is a stunner. Rich and exotic, but not at all heavy, Substance dazzles in this release. Candied orange peel, chamomile, marzipan, dried flowers and a hint of spice all take shape in the glass. This release is quite approachable today, but time and experience have taught me that Substance really blossoms with a few years in bottle. This is a very sexy Champagne. Disgorged: January 9, 2025. -- Antonio Galloni

Distinctive and savory at first, with hints of wood smoke, roasted almond, oyster shell and grilled herbs, this opens on the palate to reveal flavors of glazed apple, crystallized honey, singed orange peel, lime blossoms and ground coffee. Shows a streak of salinity that works in conjunction with fine-cut acidity to keep this focused through the long, mouthwatering finish. Fascinating. Drink now through 2039. — A.N.

I enjoyed a glass of this with my cheese course at Les Avizés (courtesy of my neighbors’ generosity) the night before our tasting with Monsieur Selosse in the spring of 2014. This was the most recent release at the time, as it had been disgorged in October of 2013. The wine offers up a deep and still quite youthful nose of fresh apricot, pear, beautifully complex, limestone minerality, smoke, gentle nuttiness, a touch of lemon peel and a faint glimmer of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and superbly complex, with a fine core, frothy mousse and outstanding focus and grip on the very long and pure finish. A beautiful wine.