Eccentric aromas of green apples, quince, chalk, straw and lemon paste with brioche depth and a Manzanilla undertone of almonds and walnuts. Medium-bodied. Smooth on the attack with fine bubbles, oxidative character and lifted acidity, especially in the finish. Toasty length. Unique. Drink now.

I love this release of the NV Champagne Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs Initial, which comes from the 2018, 2017, and 2016 vintages and originates from the lower slopes in Avize, Cramant, and Oger. Golden straw-colored, it has a great deal of depth and complexity. It’s a touch volatile on opening, but that quickly blows off to reveal deeper aromatics of nectarine, smoky wet stones, citrus oils, toast, and praline. Full-bodied and both fruity and savory, with lovely extract and generosity and a pleasing warmth on the finish, this is stunning already and should provide a wide window for enjoyment over the coming 15 or so years. - Audrey Frick

The new, flamboyant rendition of Selosse’s NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial is based on the 2019 vintage, incorporating reserve wines from 2018 and 2017, and was disgorged in April 2025 with a dosage of 2.7 grams per liter. Readers will by now be aware that it originates predominantly from the lower-lying south-facing sites (with a minority oriented eastward), where the topsoil is richer in clay and the chalk bedrock more fragmented than in the higher-altitude parcels that produce Version Originale. Leaping from the glass with aromas of orange peel, peach, dried apricot and toasted bread mingled with beeswax, it is a full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine built around a muscular core and underpinned by ripe yet vibrant acidity, culminating in a long, saline finish. This cuvée is drawn from Avize and Cramant, with a small proportion from Oger, and is typically disgorged several times a year.

The Initial is a blend from three villages, Avize, Cramant and Oger, over three vintages, 2014, 2015 and 2016 produced from lower slope parcels. Redolent and rich with aromas of rich lemon curd, citrus confit, white grapefruit, butter pastry and acacia honey, the medium-bodied palate has a rich depth of citrus fruit concentration with vibrant, undulating acidity adding freshness. This Initial finishes with incredible length with a tiny beauty mark of bitterness. Disgorged March 2023 and finished Extra Brut. - Sarah Mayo

This gorgeous blanc de blancs pulls you in with a subtle thread of enticing dried rose and incense accents. Plush on the palate, with pinpricks of effervescence and a rich underpinning of chopped hazelnut and salty minerality, all supporting flavors of quince paste and tangerine and hints of white truffle and herbes de Provence. Long and supple on the clean-cut finish. Drink now through 2034.

Any story of Champagne in the 21st century has to include Anselme Selosse as a major character, and his wines continue to display a deeply personal style that attracts loyal followers. Initial, a blend of Chardonnay from Avize, Oiry and Cramant and based on the 2017 vintage (with reserves from 2016 and 2015) is a fine way into the explosive, highly impactful style of deep umami savour, brine and cinnamon-bark spice over roasted lemons and baked apples, long and dynamic.

The NV (2017) Extra-Brut Initial is a very pretty, soft wine. Lemon confit, tangerine peel, spice, marzipan and white flowers give this edition of Initial a decidedly tropical, exotic flair. Medium in body and quite appealing, the 2017 is an absolute delight. Best of all, it is quite open in the early going. This edition is a blend 2017, 2016 and 2015, with 2017 representing about 60% of the finished wine. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: October 4, 2023. -- Antonio Galloni