With its notes of almonds, white flowers, ripe pear and quince fruit, this non-vintage Ambonnay blend is silky and rich, dense but not heavy. Rodez explains: ‘It's about Ambonnay; there is nothing to do with the lieu-dit.’ It is a blend of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir. The youngest wine is from the 2017 vintage, but the blend of over 15 base wines is almost 70% reserve wines from five or six vintages, the vast majority fermented in barrel. The wine is three years on the lees and disgorged with a dosage of 6g/L.

The NV Extra Brut Cuvée des Crayères is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, partially vinified in oak, with between 40-50% of reserve wines in the blend. Distant creaminess on the nose suggests gentleness. More air admits a sense of soy savoriness and underlines the Pinot dominance of the wine. The palate is all smooth elegance, defined by that chunk of reserve wines; all swirled around by vivid mousse that soon turns into creaminess. An upright spine of freshness adds to the existing Pinot poise. Structured and elegant. Lot 04/2023 - Anne Krebiehl MW

The NV Champagne Grand Cru Ambonnay Cuvée des Crayères is elegant and pure, with fresh white flowers, wet stone, and light smokiness. It is approachable and easy-drinking, with an understated sophistication, offering notes of raspberry eau de vie and biscuit, and the mousse is refreshing, with vibrant energy. This is quaffable now and will continue to improve over the next ten years. - Audrey Frick