The 2024 Riesling Ried Achleiten Smaragd is made from vines planted in the 1950s, late 1950s and 1991 at different aspects facing east, south and west. It mixes fresh, scented green and yellow citrus notes with a delicious hint of flint. With more air, a slight element of yeast emerges. The palate is linear, elegant, bright and slender, and yes, this is indeed a Smaragd of exquisite elegance and sinuousness. Slowly, white peach and aromatic pale nectarine shine through. Exquisite. - By Anne Krebiehl, MW

Already open and expressive, this is full of ripe peaches and lemon blossoms, backed by steely acidity on the tense, medium-bodied palate. With some aeration, this gains considerable textural complexity. Stony finish. Sustainable. Drink or hold.

A broad, seductive version, with layer after layer of ripe apricot, dried ginger and kumquat notes set against dusty earth and chamomile elements, all shored up by steely mineral undercurrents and racy acidic verve. Dried sage and thyme play out on the long, winding finish alongside a waft of smoke. Drink now through 2034. 600 cases made, 40 cases imported.