These are not happy times for Dolcetto, with many vintners today ripping out their vines to replace this grape with Nebbiolo. The Roagna family is determined to keep its two parcels of Dolcetto in Barbaresco. Luca's grandfather drank Dolcetto every day, and just as he loved it, this wine is made in an old-school style. Fruit comes from 70- and 80-year-old vines. The 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba sees an incredible 100 days of maceration, and the idea is to get as much tannin as possible from the skins and seeds because Dolcetto is not naturally tannic. Winemaking is an infusion with submerged cap. Pump-overs and punch-downs are largely avoided. This gives the wine just enough structure for a modest aging window. Otherwise, you get very pleasurable, crunchy fruit over a mid-weight delivery with delicate tones of rose, violet and cherry cola. - Monica Larner

Just bottled, the 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba is aromatic, gracious and light on its feet. Crushed flowers, spice, licorice, leather and blue-toned fruit all grace this understated Dolcetto. The 2023 spent nearly 90 days on the skins, followed by aging in cask and cement. Like so many wines in this vintage, the Dolcetto is on the lighter side. -- Antonio Galloni