A Pinot Gris that shows a serious side with nice texture and fullness, it harkens to a time when serious Pinot Gris was de rigueur in the Willamette Valley. Ripe Bartlett pears, bruised apples, and a whisper of cardamom mark the aromatics, which follow with complex nutty notes. Far from simplistic, the fruit on this palate is ripe, nuanced, and layered. Apricot flesh mingles with honeyed peaches, ginger, and lemon pastry cream. Complexity at a great value.

Always a standard bearer, the latest Pinot Gris from Elk Cove is excellent. Fresh-grated lemon zest and orange blossom aromas are accented by a wee bit of wet slate. The wine, which was whole-cluster pressed and cold fermented in small stainless steel tanks, possesses flavors ranging from grapefruit lightly sprinkled in sugar to a green apple gummy bear. — Michael Alberty