This is not only a slate bomb it is also an umami bomb, and this combination marks this out as unique dry Mosel riesling. Mind-blowing concentration of peachy fruit and a thousand delicately spicy nuances. Totally dazzling finish that leaves no trace of doubt! Drinkable now, but best from 2025. Stuart Pigott Senior Editor

(93-95 points) The 2022 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese feinherb Ur Alte Reben is from the Kakert parcel planted between 1908 and 1910, close to the river but very steep. It was first made in 2013. It gives low yields of very small grapes, often no bigger than a pea, Selbach says. The nose is all lifted Amalfi lemon, creamy ozone, breezy and scented. The palate comes in with concentration and absolute purity. There is something immensely ripe yet cool about this, pervasive and bold. The citrus attains a riper notion of orange on the palate, and the palate is alive with orange peel zestiness. A vivid and harmonious balance at 15g/L of residual sweetness. - By Anne Krebiehl MW on July 2023