Wonderfully peachy and juicy, but with a fantastic balance that’s only just the other side of dry. Then the intense slatey minerality builds and builds at the dangerously refreshing, super-focused finish. Maybe at the beginning you sense a touch of grape sweetness, but this ends decisively dry. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The 2022 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett opens with a very elegant and finely flinty bouquet of weathered slate. Mouth-filling, vital and with nervous mineral grip and tension, this is a lightweight but lush wine to be cellared for at least three more years. It is saline and expressive yet still too tight to show its best talents. 8.5% stated alcohol. Screw cap closure. Tasted at the domaine in November 2023. - SR

The 2022 Riesling Zeitinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett is from higher-lying parcels above the rocky outcrops. The nose has a sense of mossy, wet stone, pale peach and lemon. The palate focuses on peach and lemon, with beautifully streamlined sweetness, citric, pure, direct, and linear. Very energetic, beautifully elegant, measured and long. Very balanced, with 34g/L of sweetness. (Sweet) Anne Krebiehl MW