(94-96 points) Pale clear lemon. There is barely any bouquet at all at first. On the palate the clean, clear cut typical white fruit expresses itself very well. Fresh apples, a light citrus note, freshly mown grass, this is elegant while the intensity comes from the quality of tensile backbone rather than overt power. A delicious Chevalier-Montrachet in the making.

An ethereal version, offering lime blossom, lemon curd and hazelnut notes. There's a hint of citronella aligned with the elegant frame of this silky, harmonious white as it builds to the long, pastry- and mineral-infused aftertaste. This is all about subtlety and finesse. Drink now through 2032. 315 cases made, 20 cases imported.

(92-95 points) Cool, pure and restrained aromas include those of mineral reduction, green apple, spiced pear and a lovely range of floral elements, all of which is trimmed in enough wood to notice. One again, the mouthfeel of the almost painfully intense middleweight flavors is super-sleek while flashing an almost pungent minerality on the cuts-like-a-knife, wonderfully long and youthfully austere finish. This is potentially superb though one that makes clear that it is constructed for the longer-haul.

(90-92 points) The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comprises three barrels this year (one new). Like the Puligny Demoiselles, it has a surprisingly austere nose, contradicting the warm summer. The palate is much better with good substance, as you would expect from this Grand Cru. It is well-balanced, and the acidity is well-judged, though it doesn't quite fan out on the finish. Afford it 4-5 years in bottle.