The famous biographer Giorgio Vasari recalls that many artists before him had discarded the piece of marble that Michelangelo used to carve the David, observing that what makes the final work so incredible is not the perfection of the final sculpture, but rather the fact that something so spectacularly alive could be drawn from something left for dead. The same can be said for Trebbiano Toscano, and the Bòggina B is indeed a David of a wine. — Danielle Callegari

(95+ points) Luca Sanjust has created miracles with what is becoming one of my all-time-favorite Italian white wines. Made with the Trebbiano grape, the Petrolo 2022 Bòggina B is creamy and rich with succulent stone fruit, honey and hints of saffron. The 2022 vintage was indeed hot but, he tells me, not as bad as 2023. That year, he lost up to 50% of production in some plots due to mildew pressure. The wine ages in tonneaux with frequent lees stirring to give volume and soft richness to the palate. Trebbiano can be austere in character and offers good natural acidity; these qualities make it ideal for lees aging. This white wine has runway to develop further in the bottle. - Monica Larner

The 2022 Trebbiano Boggina B is one of the better versions of this wine I have tasted. Light tropical overtones add an exotic flair. White flowers, tangerine peel, mint, spice and a kiss of reduction all grace this understated, nuanced Trebbiano. Deep and yet light on its feet, the 2022 is very nicely done. -Antonio Galloni

Fresh and intense, this white features vanilla, honey, multigrain toast and iodide aromas and flavors. Backed by vivid acidity and wrapped in toasty oak, this is full-bodied yet finishes on the sleek, stylish side. Drink now through 2032. - BS