This reminds me so much of English hedgerows in summer with their diversity of flowers, berries and herbs. Cool and elegant in spite of the impressive ripeness on the medium-bodied palate. Very polished through the impeccably balanced, subtle finish. Hard to believe that analytically this must have a significant amount of grape sweetness, because it’s almost invisible. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese again shows a little tease of chervil, a touch of aromatic green citrus, not quite bergamot, but very aromatic. Once these notions have dissipated, a riper sense of citrus comes through, plunging right into Navel orange and tangerine territory. The 2022 is serene, beautifully clear-cut, light-footed, elegant and balanced.

Up-front notes of lime zest oil, peach and passion fruit show good density and harmony, with lanolin and white tea tannins adding texture. Smoky, with a steely mineral layer grounding everything through the medium finish. Flint and citrus pith accents bring a pleasing bitterness. Drink now through 2040. 60 cases imported.