This wine shows energy and verticality, with aromas of dried cherries, strawberries, wild sage and rosemary. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and crunchy and delicious fruit. Very Tuscan, with clarity and brightness. Drink now. James Suckling Senior Editor

The Fattoria le Pupille 2022 Morellino di Scansano Riserva is primarily Sangiovese with a small addition of Cabernet Sauvignon that adds concentration and draws the wine toward a black-fruit spectrum while reflecting the warmth of a hot vintage. Still youthful, the wine’s 15 months in large oak casks reveal well-managed structure and tannins, with crunchy fruit lifted by notes of rose and violet. Careful attention to preserving acidity balances the depth and ripeness of the year, placing this wine about three-quarters along the estate’s scale of intensity and highlighting the precision of the winemaking approach. - ML

I have high hopes that Morellino will return to center stage performing as the lean, agile, crowd-pleasing version of Sangiovese that it is. If the comeback is successful, it will be in large part thanks to Le Pupille's work polishing this grape's natural talents. — Danielle Callegari