What an expansive and complex smoky, flinty nose this very energetic dry riesling has. Serious tannin structure, but the wine really needs and benefits from that. Terrific flinty drive in the extremely long, focused finish. Limited production, entirely from the Grand Cru Rangen. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Riesling Roche Volcanique is from the Rangen Grand Cru in Thann, from around 30-year-old vines from the very top of the site where the soil is shallower. The nose is beautifully tight and clear-cut, with almost a touch of chervil surrounding the stoniness and that hint of reductive flint. The palate is taut but very juicy, bright and lemony, with lots of rich extracts. It's contained yet fluid and so mouth-watering, always with that clear-cut, salty stoniness. The 2022 is lovely and totally refreshing. (Bone-Dry)