The forward, ripe aromas of black plum and cassis are coloured here with notes of Havana cigar, earth, and smoke. The texture is structured and firmly tannic, with an elegantly lingering finish. This well-situated premier cru is surrounded by grand crus on every side; Louis Trapet relates that the soils are closer to Clos de la Roche than to Latricières, almost sandy. The grapes, formerly blended with Corbeaux and En Ergot, are now wholly vinified as whole clusters, and it is easy to see their merits on their own.

(92-95 points) The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er Cru, including 100% whole bunches, manages to completely disguise the stems on the nose to the point where I was about to ask if it was completely de-stemmed! Very pure and very intense red berry fruit, briar and forest floor, a hint of morels. The palate is medium-bodied with black cherries, bilberry, baking powder and graphite, the two-thirds new oak leading to some wood tannins on the finish that will need to be subsumed with bottle age. Quite tricky to see how this will develop…

(92-94 points) Once again there is moderate wood framing the spicy red and dark currant scents where more aromatic breadth is present in the form of rose petal and lavender wisps. There is a lovely sense of energy to the focused middleweight flavors that possess even better depth and persistence on the balanced, refined and classy finale. This is very stylish and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping.

(92-94 points) The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes bursts with aromas of cherries, sweet red berries, spices and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered palate that's supple and enveloping, with broad shoulders and an integrated, harmonious profile. It was vinified without any destemming this year.- WK