(95-98 points) 50 % new wood and 90% whole bunch vinification. Picked on the second day. A heady bright purple. The bouquet is backward but suggesting a classical fruit profile, more raspberry than strawberry, with enough density that the whole bunch effect is not so evident. Now a little white pepper. A beautiful expression of dark raspberry fruit on the nose, just a little acidity, with great sense of balance.

Nicolas Groffier produced a classic Bonnes Mares from his one-hectare holding, with dark damson plum and mulberry fruit aromas and hints of cedar, smoke, and pepper. The structure is firmly tannic, solid, and dense, but not heavy or ungainly – muscular elegance, one might say. The parcel is in one solid piece near the Morey end of the village; Nicolas describes it as being 75% terres rouges and 25% terres blanches; the grapes are entirely fermented as whole clusters with a gentle extraction, and the resulting wine is ageing in cask

This expressive red starts out with effusive aromas of toasty, smoky oak, with black cherry, blackberry, violet and smoked meat flavors. Open and solidly built, with vegetal accents and a long, subtle finish, where this dovetails nicely. Best from 2030 through 2047. - BS