This sports dark cherry, currant and raspberry fruit flavors that are mulled in feel, but kept taut and lively by a torrent of acidity, while sage, warm earth, white pepper, savory and flint notes bounce around. Overall a bit sauvage in feel, this is a compelling wine, but needs cellaring to tame it and allow it to stretch out. Best from 2026 through 2038. — J.M.

The 2022 Pinot Noir La Côte opens with a composed, harmonious nose that only hints at the concentration and weightless density found within, combining bright, high-toned fruit aromas with profound, grounded, savory flourishes. The palate is striking in its layered, nearly opulent power, which admirably manages impressive richness without losing focus, drive or allure. The finish is similarly multidimensional and expansive, wrapping up the wine with bright acidity and precise, fine-grained, powdery tannins. This wine never stopped morphing and expanding in the glass, both in aromatic fidelity and in the dimension of the finish, suggesting this has plenty of potential in the cellar. - Matthew Luczy

(94+ points) The 2022 Pinot Noir La Côte is the most intensely savory and mineral of the Pinots here. In that sense, it offers an extremely vivid expression of the rugged, windswept nature of this site on the far western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills. Crushed rocks, dried herbs, lavender, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and red cherry fruit abound. There is a feeling of youthful austerity to La Côte that will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, sinewy Pinots. -- Antonio Galloni