(97-98 points) Welcome to the wide, red velvet sofa! Very subtle black-fruit aromas, including a touch of mulberry. Expansive and concentrated, but very precise, thanks to the extremely fine tannins, the earthiness ever more prominent at the generous and beautifully proportioned finish.

In bottle. Made as three cuvees, then assembled. A rich mid purple with a deliciously heady bouquet, the sumptuous side of dark raspberry, perfumed yet precise, purple fruit with some redder layers beneath, a little white pepper spice, multiple layers of fruit, very engaging with just a very slight youthful bitterness. Irreproachable.

We tasted an assortment of barrels from the 2022 vintage: one from the southern end of Bonnes-Mares, one from the middle, and one from the north. The portion from the south showed results that are supple and elegant with a lovely fruit and impressive length. The center shows a lovely richness and density, and the sample coming from the northern end of the vineyard showed more reduction, but there was a lovely finesse and an elegant raspberry note. The blend should produce one of the wines of the vintage in this appellation.

Another cuvée that was also in bottle when I visited, the 2022 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with exotic notes and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's concentrated and textural, with nicely integrated tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, rose-inflected finish. Its more sensual style is a welcome evolution.