As much lime as lemon in the colour. Very grapey on the nose, but in theory not muscatty as they avoided that version of chardonnay when taking cuttings to plant the new plots. Quite classy but evidently not the weight and depth of older vines. A lemony touch at the finish.

The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé L'Orangerie de Château des Quarts 1er Cru comes from the younger vines and is racked into stainless steel after 12 months (whereas the main cuvée goes back into used barrels). This is tightly wound and energetic on the nose. Citrus lemon and orange pith come through mixed with light petrichor scents. The palate is fresh and sapid on the entry, with a fine bead of acidity. It's a little spicier than the previous vintage with an elegant finish. Lovely. - By Neal Martin on June 2024