Vilmart lost half its production in 2021's mildew-ridden season, yet has turned out one of the vintage's top wines released so far in this graceful, focused and, crucially for the year, ageworthy cuvée focused on Chardonnay and vinified entirely in barrel. Lime, peach blossom, nut oil and candied lemon flavours ride a driven but not austere palate of beautiful length and restraint. A meringue-soft mousse and perfectly balanced palate means this is a 2021 to approach with confidence.

Disgorged in July 2025 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2021 Grand Cellier d'Or—raised for 10 months in 228-liter oak barrels—unfurls in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, spring flowers and quince mingled with notes of nashi pear and toasted bread. Medium-bodied, incisive and taut, it is defined by cut and tension, its trenchant acidity amplified by the vintage and the house's non-malolactic approach. Chalky and precise, it culminates in a long, lemon-inflected finish. -Kristaps Karklins

The 2021 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or is bright, focused and bristling with energy. Lemon peel, chalk, slate, oyster shells and white pepper sizzle with saline-infused energy. This is wonderfully vibrant and alive in the glass. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2025. - Antonio Galloni