Starting off gently, with a nose of light citrus and flowers, and hints of smoke and the sea, once in the mouth in comes the acidity and the terroir with a boom, in a rush of slicing minerality and mouth-tingling freshness. Ends on gentle woodsmoke and lilies, and a slightly salty, lingering finish. Achieving the near-impossible, this is a lightweight, delicate, thrilling powerhouse of a wine. Biodynamic. (Drink between 2025-2045)

The 2021 Saumur Blanc Clos Romans possesses an expressive, floral bouquet of citrus oil, pomegranate, spring flowers and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, enrobing and charming, profound and satiny palate that segues into a long and mineral finish highlighted by elegant gastronomic, mineral bitterness. A real success! pH: 2.99. - Yohan Castaing

The 2021 Clos Romans’ peaceful entry starts as if it has repented for its sins, but don’t be fooled: this dry style has a fierce arrow-like line of acidity and tension penetrating the wine's core. In its precise and tense youth, this aromatically restrained wine offers subtle florals, quince and lees-derived notes, but it needs time to unfurl, relax and blossom. -- Rebecca Gibb MW