From vines planted on clay-limestone in 1904, the 2021 Les Mémoires is fragrant, refined and long. It offers up rich concentration within an elegant, rather delicate package. As you'd expect from a wine of this age, it's youthful and bright, with primary fruit aromas of redcurrant alongside florals, black olive and even a whiff of wood smoke. There's certainly depth and substance of tannin, but they melt in your mouth. The finish is refined and assured, with scintillating acidity providing a fabulous backbone. -- Rebecca Gibb MW

The 2021 Saumur Champigny Les Mémoires, deriving from vines rooted in silex soils atop chalky subsoils, offers up aromas of plums, violets, peonies, spices and smoke intertwined with flinty notes. Medium to full-bodied, layered and crystalline, it’s deep and complete with structuring tannins and a more austere character than the Clos de l’Echelier. It should see out its 10th anniversary in fine form. - Yohan Castaing