The 2021 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch is a wine of tremendous stature. Vertical and composed in bearing, the 2021 has a ton to offer, but is also a bit reserved today. Time in the glass brings out a mesmerizing range of red/purplish fruit, spice, cedar, new leather, tobacco, mocha and dried flowers. Pagani Ranch remains a beacon for Sonoma County Zinfandel-based field blends. This is a fine rendition. -- Antonio Galloni

A blend of 90% Zinfandel and 5% each of Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet, the 2021 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch has textbook Zinfandel sweet red and black plum, sandalwood, cigar, candied orange-driven aromatics as well as a beautifully layered, textured style on the palate. I love its overall balance, it has ripe, polished tannins, and a just a pure, layered, complex style with so much to love.

Felice Pagani began planting vines at an old dairy farm in the 1890s, then added more blocks in 1914. His great-grandchildren continue to farm 30 acres of centenarian vines on the property near Kenwood, having replanted some of the blocks between 2013 and 2018. Mostly zinfandel and petite sirah with a little mataro and alicante bouschet, the varied blocks provide fruit for John Olney’s team at Ridge to transform into mixed-black riches. In 2021, it’s a wine of powerful concentration and supple elasticity to its spicy tannins. Bright and complete, this is a wine that will age for a decade or more. —J.G.

Vivid, focused raspberries and red currants light up the aroma of this well-balanced, elegant wine before cooked strawberries and red plums fill the palate. Light toasty, oaky accents of vanilla and chocolate lend a bit of extra interest. Best through 2033. — Jim Gordon

Potent at the core, yet retains a sense of refinement, with multilayered flavors of black cherry, fruitcake spices and licorice that build richness and structure toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2031. 7,300 cases made.