2021 was marginally cooler for whites, and while this is young, its power is irrepressible yet it also shows restraint and harmony. A fine gauze of delicate florals and spice tucked behind structure, power and tension. Tuberose, green peppercorn, pear skin, preserved lemon, green cardamon and peach blossom. The palate offers jewelled hues of peach pit; a little flint, lots of wet stone minerality and crushed white sage dance with a very fine thread of salinity and lacy acidity. This takes time to unravel and unfurl, but once it does, it's got everything. The structure is superb and the 100% new oak meticulosity managed. Is this the greatest Art Series yet?

This stunning 2021 Margaret River Chardonnay Art Series shows beautiful racy lines with a slick and seamless style as it bursts with toasted cashews, melon, lemon peel and pith aromas lifted by mandarin rind. Fabulous fruit density with immense power yet retaining refinement and shape over a long, strong finish. Energetic, vibrant, perfectly formed and built for the long haul.

There’s always an anticipation when a new vintage arrives. This doesn’t disappoint – it’s archetypal Art Series: powerful, rich and layered with flavour from stone fruit, pink grapefruit and Meyer lemon to a touch of mandarin. The palate builds with creamy lees, oak spice and some phenolics – the oak is superbly integrated, and pure acidity leads this to a persistent finish. Impressive as always.

Extremely complex and classy on the nose with aromas of lemon peel, flint, nectarines, sea salt and minerals. The palate is tightly wound with high-tension acidity, generous mouthfeel and an underlying power, showing notes of lime curd, mandarin pith, orange blossoms, baking spices and gunsmoke. Very complete and made for the ages. Excellent. Drink or hold. Crown cap.

Leeuwin seems to be striding from strength to strength. The ever-dependable, consistent, age-worthy Art Series Chardonnay is great every season. It is always a reflection of the vintage, but it is Art Series Chardonnay first. The style is entrenched in the history of the wine, and as the vines gain in age, the fruit spectrum of the wines expand in complexity. So, each year seems to be "better than ever," and that makes sense when you drill down into site and production, both of which are tightly controlled to a high level of detail. While the 2021 Art Series Chardonnay is arguably finer than the 2020 or undoubtedly the 2022 yet to be released, it makes an impact as an excellent Art Series Chardonnay and sits beside the 2017 in style. - Erin Larkin

This aromatic white finds the tension between power and restraint. There's plenty of ruby grapefruit, Meyer lemon and sage notes up front on a sleek, juicy, polished frame. Himalayan salt, apple blossom, toasted sesame seed and tangerine grace notes integrate seamlessly. Drink now through 2037. — M.W.

Still a baby, reductive notes of struck match and cashew nut perch atop lemon balm and melon characters. There's pithy, lemony zip and zing on the palate that's countered by a lick of toasty richness that makes it both refreshing solo and highly food friendly. Still young, it has at least another decade ahead of it. — Christina Pickard