The Gaja 2021 Langhe Alteni di Brassica is showing beautifully right now. This wine has seen a few tweaks over the years. In fact, the previous 2020 vintage already saw the introduction of some Alta Langa fruit (from the Gaja family's new vineyard and winery) in the blend. However, the base of the blend comes from old vines planted in 1983 in Serralunga d'Alba (in the Vigna Rionda). The Alta Langa fruit in this vintage measures 10%, but that number jumps to 30% in 2022. Giovanni Gaja tells me that "the raw part of the wine," or in other words, the citrusy side of the wine, is brought by the Alta Langa fruit. Winemaking and aging are an effort to protect the wine from oxygen, with racking only when necessary. The wine is matured on the lees in 60% stainless steel and 40% large oak botti. Sauvignon Blanc from Barbaresco tends to be delicate and floral, Sauvignon Blanc from Serralunga d'Alba is structured and Sauvignon Blanc from Alta Langa has the freshness and sharpness, says Giovanni Gaja. - Monica Larner

The 2021 Alteni di Brassica is a gorgeous, steely white endowed with tons of varietal character. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from the Gaja family's new vineyards in Alta Langa. Lemon peel, sage, mint, dried herbs, chamomile and a touch of tropical fruit linger on the bright, saline finish. (Drink between 2023-2031) - Antonio Galloni