A dense style, this red is saturated with pure cherry, accented with raspberry, rose, graphite and wild herb flavors. Harmonious, despite its youthful tautness, this lingers with an aftertaste of fruit, savory and mineral notes. Best from 2029 through 2047. — B.S.

The Cogno family is well known for its work in Novello, Barolo, but it also produces a really terrific Barbaresco from Neive. The Elvio Cogno 2021 Barbaresco Bordini offers a smooth and steady approach to the palate, with silky sensations to close. You get aromas of blue fruit and light spice, but in truth, the wine is all about texture and finesse. It spends a brief 12 to 14 months in botti, so the oak influences are minimal. - Monica Larner

A dark, youthful red, the 2021 Barbaresco Bordini is highly expressive on the nose, with savory and spiced notes of sour cherries, menthol, spiced red plum, and pine needles. The palate offers a good deal of structure and strength on this medium-framed Barbaresco, with an earthy profile and ripe tannins. It’s well-balanced but demands another couple of years in the cellar. Drink 2026-2040.