For anyone who has never taste one, this wine smells like the red-fleshed vineyard peach. Then, on the incredibly focused palate, you plunge into the mineral depths of a riesling Grand Canyon. You need to like acidity to appreciate this astonishing experience at this youthful stage, but the wine is still extremely young. For the moment you need to chase a laser beam! From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.

From a two-hectare parcel with the oldest (50+ years) vines, the 2021 Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg GG shows a deep, quiet and subtle but very complex and generous bouquet of ripe fruits and finely crushed stones (Rotliegend). Full-bodied, rich and intense, with immense concentration and substance, this is a powerful yet firmly structured, elegant, very long and complex Riesling with ripe tannins and a long, refined and textural finish. The acidity is saline and ripe, very elegant and completely interwoven with body, fruit and tannin. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022. - SR

There cannot be too many GGs produced from red sandstone soils, making the beautiful 2021 Höllenpfad Grosses Gewächs bottling from Cornelius Dönnhoff one of the most unique great bottles of dry Riesling in the vintage. The wine is just a touch riper than the Krötenpfuhl this year, coming in at an even thirteen percent alcohol and offering up a deep and complex bouquet of blood orange, green tangerine, wild yeasts, elder flowers, lemongrass and a beautifully refined base of sandstone minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, great mineral undertow and grip, ripe, snappy acids and stunning length on the very, very promising and impeccably balanced finish. This is going to be gorgeous juice.

This feels light and graceful, with nuanced notes of quince, white peach and kiwi. It is quite polished and nicely knit, with acidity, minerality and fruit and floral elements all standing their ground. Steely acidity drives an intense power through the finish. Best after 2027. — Aleks Zecevic