Here too there is just enough wood to merit mentioning as well as a hint of the exotic to be found on the aromas of pear confit, jasmine tea, orange peel and peach. There is superb density to the highly seductive, even plush, larger-bodied flavors that possess a suave mouthfeel while displaying stunningly good length on the powerful, firm and built-to-age finale. This is a strikingly good Criots that could be approached after only 5 to 7 years yet should repay up to 15 years of keeping.

The Criots has less richness than the Bâtard but more elegance, with notes of ripe pear and hawthorn flowers and a greater sense of minerality. The aromas open up on the palate, which is still grand cru-rich but less massive. The freshness lifts the creamy, nutty flavours and sustains the wine without heaviness through the lengthy finish. The Criots will open more in a few years and will continue to improve in bottle for at least twenty years.