In a lineup of profoundly expressive pinots for 2021, this was the only Bergström wine that came out of the gate a little sluggish, with scents of sassafras and leaf-litter, the fruit scant. Texturally, it was all in...
In a lineup of profoundly expressive pinots for 2021, this was the only Bergström wine that came out of the gate a little sluggish, with scents of sassafras and leaf-litter, the fruit scant. Texturally, it was all in place, and the fruit broke through with air—saturated red cherry, pretty and succulent and mouth-filling. It could use some cellar time to work out its youthful jitters, but with time in a decanter it’s the whole package for fennel-rubbed pork tenderloin. —P.J.C.