Overtones of flowers and spices brighten an otherwise seriously savory nose. The palate stays savory, but the spices linger and work with an emergent lemon streak to create a volcanic minerality even as it delivers a round, full texture before a long, hot finish. — Danielle Callegari

93+ This wine is very linear and tight, definitely requiring a few more years of bottle age to flesh out and develop. At this young stage, the Benanti 2021 Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Rinazzo is focused on citrus, green melon and Granny Smith apple. Give this wine a year or two more in the bottle to develop some of those pretty Carricante tones of flint, crushed stone and yellow rose. - ML

Delicate and floral on the nose, this bursts on the palate with its expressive notes of pink grapefruit granita, fleur de sel, ripe yellow pear, anise and chopped Marcona almond. Long and creamy on the minerally finish. Drink now through 2029.

Etna pioneer Benanti has vineyards on every side of the volcano but its holding in Milo on the eastern slopes is particularly unique as this is the only area that qualifies for the rare Etna Superiore label. Contrada Rinazzo is a steep terraced vineyard at 800m above sea level on ancient lava flows. Light but well balanced, this has a saline, peachy quality with white flowers and touches of nuttiness. Lemon and lanolin complete the finish. (Drink between 2022-2032)