Bright garnet color and deep, intense nose of watermelon, mint, fresh violets and stony minerality. The palate is full of sucrosity with a full body, lifted acidity and firm velvety tannins of rare grace for a wine with this power. Perfectly integrate oak and a stern finish as expected from a Barolo made for the long haul. Try from 2027.

From the heart of Bussia comes a great classic of Barolo. The wine displays an intoxicating perfume of red fruits and yellow-fleshed fruits, violet, dried cherry, watermelon and liquorice, also with a bloody hint at the back. Integrated and tight-knit between fruit and acidity, with young, muscular but velvety tannins and a slightly bitter finish due to the magnesium in the soils.

A smooth and harmonious red, offering cherry, raspberry, rose, mineral, wild rosemary and oak spice aromas and flavors. Complex and expressive yet well-structured, this cruises to the long, detailed finish. Shows terrific potential. Best from 2028 through 2047. — B.S.

The 2020 Barolo Colonnello is a big, strapping wine. Dark-fleshed fruit, new leather, licorice, herbs, menthol, licorice and torrefaction amplify the wine's natural breadth. The Colonnello offers an intriguing mix of forward fruit and supporting structure. New oak notes are perhaps a bit strong, but that's a relatively small quibble at this level. -- Antonio Galloni