The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2020 Barolo Bussia is a fine and silky wine with the elegant power that is characteristics of this special cru. The wine shows bright fruit flavors with cherry and blackcurrant followed by earthy iris root and licorice. There is a hint of perfume or church incense. That pretty intensity follows through to the palate with balanced freshness and lasting medium-plus richness. - Monica Larner

The nose is attractive, with watermelon, leafy lightness, fresh violets and strawberry fruit. The palate is savory and graceful, with a full body, velvety tannins soaked in peach fruit, juicy acidity and a polished aftertaste. A bracing Barolo with at least 10 years of cellaring potential, yet enjoyable now.

Starts with cherry and strawberry flavors interwoven with a supple texture. Earth, mineral and hibiscus notes add detail, while solid tannins emerge on the vibrant finish. Showing a mix of elegance and power, this red finishes long. Best from 2027 through 2045. — B.S.

The 2020 Barolo Bussia is a terrific entry-level offering from the Conterno brothers. Rich, succulent and expressive, the Bussia is everything a wine should be at this level. A burst of dark cherry, plum, spice, new leather, licorice and rose petal makes a strong first impression. Readers will certainly find plenty to like, starting with the wine's sheer appeal. -- Antonio Galloni