This is very focused with lots of ripe tannins in the center palate. Very velvety and fine-textured with a pointed character. Medium to full body. Aromas of plums and spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg to the fruit. Bitter citrus. Chewy at the end. Taut muscles. Sophisticated. Needs four or five years to come around. Best after 2030.

Elegantly structured, the polished Pio Cesare 2020 Ornato opens with aromas of pressed rose, new leather, forest floor and exotic brown spice. It’s intense and enveloping, with firm, extremely refined tannins that support juicy black cherry, cranberry and licorice. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced.

The most powerful of the bunch is the Pio Cesare 2020 Barolo Ornato. This is a structured wine with firm tannins and dense fruit that falls on the darker side of the spectrum with blackberry and damson plum. You also get that typical Serralunga d'Alba imprint of rusty mineral and dark licorice. The wine is quite ample in terms of volume and depth, and iy's definitely reflective of its territory of origin. - Monica Larner

This Barolo from the Ornato vineyard offers enticing aromas of ripe black cherry, cinnamon-spiced cake, candied blood orange zest, and a hint of fresh bay leaf. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced, with a precise, linear structure that showcases flavors of juicy blackberry, dark chocolate, and a touch of vanilla. The wine's impressive length and depth are evident in the long, satisfying finish. Drink 2026-2044. — Jeff Porter

This is firm and tightly wound, with thick, refined tannins setting the stage for cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco and iron flavors, while dusty, mouthcoating tannins infuse the finish. Patience required for the fruit to emerge. Best from 2029 through 2050. 207 cases imported.

Ornato is deep and earthy, with a layer of sous bois aroma under spicy hedgerow berries. It's framed by sturdy wood, and although it has that Serralunga tannic structure, they are quite silky. There's intensity here but it's a thought-provoking wine rather than giving everything away upfront. There's a gentle sweetness to the cherry and blackberry fruits, and a fine, sapid finish of wild herbs, spice and graphite. Give this a few years in bottle to see it at its best.

The 2020 Barolo Ornato expresses a wonderful floral profile on the nose, with loads of fresh roses, red raspberries, dried strawberries, white pepper, and fennel. It displays a more linear approach compared to the Mosconi (which has broader shoulders and more structure), with fine tannins, snappy acidity, and a bright lift on the finish. It is elegant and a touch nervous at this stage and will benefit from another year in bottle. Drink 2025-2037.