Enchanting aromas of flowers like violets and lemon blossom, with raspberries and cranberries. Full-bodied yet focused and framed with a structure that builds on your palate and grows and grows, yet it remains fresh and vivid. The tannins are energetic and so, so long. A contemporary jewel. Fascinating. Thoughtful wine. Only the oldest vines are used in this from the 1940s and 1960s.

The 2020 Barolo Mosconi displays a darker ruby color and reveals a fantastic nose with spicier notes of fresh red cherries, incense, candied roses, fresh sage, and peppery spice. Elegant, with fine tannins and mouthwatering freshness, it’s ripe but very pure, with a long, clean finish. It’s delicious out of the gate but is sure to age with grace over the coming 15 years. I continue to be impressed with the consistency and value these wines have to offer, and readers should not sleep on them, since they’re widely available. Drink 2024-2040.

The delicious 2020 Mosconi from Pio Cesare has a smooth, almost creamy texture that wraps around fleshy raspberry, crushed Morello cherry, blood orange, licorice and tobacco. It’s already drinking beautifully, thanks to the juicy fruit and velvety tannins.

With fruit from Montforte d'Alba, the Pio Cesare 2020 Barolo Mosconi was first produced in 2015. Although the winery team has more than five years of experience with Mosconi, Cesare Benvenuto tells me that there was a steep learning curve with this wine. Mosconi is 300 meters removed from Ornato; however, the results are quite different, especially in terms of the mouthfeel. Mosconi shows silky or velvety tannins, and Ornato is more structured. This wine is lifted in terms of aromas, with bright raspberry and blue flowers. It reveals an open but translucent quality that gives this Barolo an especially elegant and undertone personality. - Monica Larner

The Mosconi unfurls with a medley of ripe plum and cherry, underpinned by the soft perfume of blue violets and rosebuds, with sandalwood, wild herbs, and roasted shiitake adding depth. On the palate, red fruits shine through a refined and silky structure, flanked by a rich tapestry of savory spices and a hint of briny minerality. Drink now–2040 — Jeff Porter

This rich red features a dense matrix of tannins and lively acidity uplifting its cherry, menthol, mineral and spice flavors. Austere for the vintage now, yet there's good viscosity midpalate and this finishes long and detailed. Best from 2028 through 2050. 100 cases imported.