This is spiced with candied mandarin and peach skins as well as dried herbs and hints of cream. Medium- to full-bodied. This is so complete and lengthy on the palate and very balanced. It’s polished and even with toned acidity and a somewhat firm, phenolic backbone to it. Tense and nervy, but very elegant, too. Drink or hold.

The moment you lift the glass, the nobleness of Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris) is known. This is the true essence of the variety, with a cascade of aromas that can make one shudder: baked apples layered with spice and drizzled with warmed honey as pressed flowers accompany, roasted almonds crumbled on top. Subtle mineral notes dip in and out with each whiff. The palate is an ocean crashing upon the palate with wave after wave of flavors fresh apples, then roasted almonds, sea salt and fresh herbs, then crushed stone all the while lifted by a consistent acidity that neither peaks nor ebbs. A wine for now or later, there will always be smiles. — Jeff Porter

The Livio Felluga 2020 Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio Curubella is a fascinating wine that reveals a slightly pink or copperish hue (called "ramato" in Italian) that comes thanks to some minimal skin contact. That pretty intensity translates to both the bouquet and the mouthfeel of this special wine that is aged in vessels made with a composite of cement known as cocciopesto. Sweet peach, grapefruit and spicy saffron emerge, and the wine is broad and even a touch sweet. It also offers drying mineral tones in contrast. - Monica Larner

A tightly meshed white that unfurls on the palate, with a minerally underpinning of smoke and saline bolstering flavors of grainy pear, orange curd, chamomile and crushed almond. Racy and mouthwatering, but shows a creamy nappe to the texture that works nicely with the acidity. The long finish shows mineral elements and light herb and floral accents. Drink now through 2030. - AN