The aromas begin with ripe apple and pear, then there are shades of citrus and tropical fruit that range from passionfruit to pomelo. On the palate, the aromatic profile expands to include hazelnut and butter suffused with a firm saline minerality - lovely balance overall, with more freshness than Bâtard and a stunning finish. This wine is an elegant, sophisticated version of Montrachet that avoids all excess while expressing the full range of aromas and flavours of Montrachet.

Enough wood to comment on surrounds the smoky aromas of white orchard fruit, anise, exotic tea, acacia and a whiff of petrol character. Here too the imposingly powerful flavors possess a highly sophisticated and seductive mouthfeel even though they are not super-dense. By contrast, they are remarkably fine while displaying superb length on the citrus, bone-dry and youthfully austere finale that just goes and goes. This compact and very tightly wound beauty is definitely going to require extended patience but if given adequate time, it should be brilliant.

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense nose, quite powerful, maybe the oak a little too present at the moment. The palate is powerful too, touches of tropical fruit infusing the citrus fruit, lightly spiced with a slightly heavy finish. Very fine, but it will require time to absorb the new oak. - Neal Martin, October 2021