The gentle handling and reductive ageing of the wines here gives an easy-to-love result, with clean aromas of ripe pear, butter and spice, plus a supple yet elegant feel on the palate that is less powerful but more elegant than its neighbour, Bâtard. Céline Fontaine farms this 0.33ha Criots parcel under the influence of the combe that leads to St-Aubin. Although the climat is next to Bâtard it is very different, with red marl and more limestone pebbles than one finds there, giving this wine lovely minerality.

This is also wonderfully pure and, contrary to most vintages, currently displays no exoticism on the highly spiced white orchard fruit aromas. Once again there is a really lovely mouthfeel to the succulent yet sleek medium weight plus flavors that culminate in a hugely persistent finish. This is potential the best Fontaine Criots in a number of years.

The 2020 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, matured in around 40% new oak, has quite an intense bouquet: orange pith, grilled hazelnut and walnut, just a hint of spice. It will require time for the wood to fully integrate. The palate is rounded in texture with light tropical notes, passion fruit and pineapple counterbalanced by a fine line of acidity. Just misses a little tension on the finish, but otherwise this is very fine. - Neal Martin, October 2021